Volta, Ho & Wli

The Volta Region packs Ghana's best walking into a small area: the Wli waterfalls, the climb up Afadjato, monkey sanctuaries and ridge-top villages with views into Togo. It suits hikers, backpackers and anyone who wants green hills and cool nights after time on the coast.

Tro-tros and STC buses run Accra to Ho in about 3-4 hours. From Ho, tro-tros or a shared taxi reach Hohoe in about 2 hours, then Wli is a further 30-45 minutes by tro-tro or taxi. Many people break the journey in Ho or Hohoe rather than pushing straight through.

Tro-tros link Ho, Hohoe, Wli and the sanctuaries, but they thin out in the afternoon. A taxi hired for the day (roughly GHS 400-700) is the practical way to combine Wli falls, Afadjato and Tafi Atome in one loop. Bring cash, because ATMs are scarce outside Ho and Hohoe.

• Wli has two falls. The lower one is an easy 45-minute walk and the upper one a steeper 2-3 hour return; be honest about your fitness and the daylight.
• Start Afadjato early. The trail is exposed and the summit clouds over by mid-afternoon.
• Tafi Atome's monkey sanctuary is best at dawn or dusk when the mona monkeys come in to feed; the guides know the troop's habits.
• Ewe food is worth seeking out: akple with fetri detsi, and apeteshie if you're curious.