Mole & the Northern savannah

Mole is Ghana's flagship national park: open savannah, elephants that come down to the waterholes, and none of the fencing or convoys of the big East African parks. It suits people who want a genuine safari on a low-key, walked-in scale and who accept that getting there is part of the trip.

Fly Accra to Tamale in about an hour, then drive 4-5 hours to Mole on a road that is rough in stretches; most visitors arrange a pick-up through their lodge. By road from Accra, STC and VIP buses reach Tamale in 9-12 hours, so some people take the overnight bus, sleep, then continue in daylight.

Inside the park, walking safaris with an armed ranger and vehicle safaris are the only ways to move; arrange them at the visitor centre or through your lodge. There is no public transport around Mole, so settle your onward travel before you arrive.

• Book accommodation well ahead for December and January, and confirm whether your room has running water and power backup.
• Park fees, ranger fees and vehicle fees are charged separately and mostly in cash; carry enough cedis for the whole stay.
• Dawn and late afternoon drives give the best sightings; midday is genuinely hot and the animals know it.
• The Tamale to Mole road is long with few fuel stops. Fill up and buy water in Tamale before you set off.